You're going to like it here ….. This trip will take you
a full day.Some people love it so much they just don't go home
....
More rugged and raw than the Ring of Kerry, Beara has its own
unique atmosphere with grand scenery,
mysterious stone circles, standing stones and magical wells (one
of which is said to make you look and feel seven years younger
and to live seven years longer !
You can see ruined castles and churches, colourful villages and
feel what Ireland was like thirty years ago.
From Kenmare cross the bridge on the road to Glengarriff
and turn right immediately.Signposted to Castletownbere.
The coastal road has wonderful views back to Kenmare and the Mountains.
About five miles along is a large and lovely island which used
to be the home of a number of monks who lived on the
abundant local fish and shellfish. There's a good seafood restaurant
and sailing school here.Two more miles brings you to a crossroads.
The right hand road leads to a pleasant harbour and beach. Or
you could turn left up a narrow country road to Gleninchaquin
Country Park (small admission charge) with stunning scenery,a
chain of lakes, and great views
There's a side road to Uragh Stone Circle (keep to the path
- it's in a BOG !) which overlooks a pleasant lake with a backdrop
of a huge waterfall (depending on how much rain there's been lately.
Wellingtons are an advantage in winter.
You can drive right up to the waterfall and walk around it. Really
good views down the valley.
(You need stout shoes to walk up alongside the waterfall)
Back down to the main R571 and further along there are several
lovely lakes framing the mountains.
Just along the main road is the Lake House - a really nice pub
with Superb Food !!! Try the Fish...
You can choose to go on the coastal road to the right or directly
through the mountains to the Healy Pass
(a Spectacular drive with precipitous views across the lovely
Glanmore Lake) This is one of the most famous views in Ireland.
If you go on the coastal road you'll eventually come to a little
harbour with a pub (good stop for lunch or a snack)
Soon after this on the Lauragh Road you'll see Dereen Gardens
- a sub-tropical paradise with acres
of really wonderful gardens (and a tea room !) Don't miss Dereen
Gardens - usually open April-September
It has excellent views across the bay to the mountains
Drive to Lauragh to join the Healy Pass road - you'll cross
a small bridge and think it's the wrong road-
because it's so small - immediately in front of you is the car
park to the An Sibin Pub - pull in there for
a nice surprise (I won't tell you what it is but you'll believe
in Leprechauns forever after !) It's in a really nice setting
beside the river with moss covered tree trunks and roots. This
is a real Magical place.
If you prefer to go the other way through the Healy Pass,
you'll get an aerial view across Glanmore Lake and look
down on
Tiny farms and houses below. Don't miss it !
Over the pass - stop at the top and see the view from both directions.
When you get to the coast turn left and then first left to a ruined
church and standing stones with
good views across Bantry Bay.There are LOTS of standing stones
and prehistoric things around here but you'll have to explore
!
Go back down to the coast and keep to the coast road -Hungry
Hill is on the right (Daphne Dumaurier wrote about the feud
And this was based on the feud between the Puxleys and the O'Sullivans
The coastal road takes you to Castletownberehaven (Castletownbere)
and details from there are below.
There are some very interesting side turns on the road so why
not explore them ? From An Sibin Pub -
From here you can double back to the Lauragh cross roads and drive
some more along the coast - about a mile along is a natural harbour
with old boats laid up and good views (sometimes with lovely reflections).
A bit further you cross a bridge over a lake and there's a sign
to Glanmore Lake. Take the left turn. Two miles along is
a right turn to a Stone Circle -called Shronebirrane Circle
it's well signposted but the road is a bit rough.
this is SPECTACULARLY sited in a gorge with looming mountains
- a really romantic spot
(except that it's in the back yard of a farm !) It's well worth
a visit
Back to Glanmore Lake and a stroll by the lake. It's one of the
iconic Irish views with a lovely cottage on the other side.
Back to the main road and along the coastal road to Ardgroom
(There's a signposted stone circle here with super surroundings
But you should ask permission to visit it from the farmer- it's
well signposted)
Eyeries is a very attractive village with colourful houses pubs
and good Public Toilets !
Follow the sign to Kilcatherine and on the way see the
biggest Standing Stone around ! (in Ireland anyway !) it's between
Eyeries and Allihies and is reached by going alongside
someone's house (may need permission- I'm not sure) but it's easy
to visit. The harbour nearby is pretty too.
Take the road on to Kilcatherine where there's a ruined church
(with a prehistoric stone Goddess head over the door !)
It also has the oldest Celtic Cross in Ireland in the Graveyard.
Lovely views fron the Churchyard - note the coffin stones in the
carpark.
Nearly opposite is The Hag of Beara - a magic rock where offerings
are still made. It's very spooky at dusk. DO NOT TOUCH
the offerings at all.
A Rock tomb is about two mile walk from the end of this road
but it's badly signposted and the path is treacherous.
When I last went it looked like the path was crumbling into the
sea
Allihies is next - a very colourful village where all the houses
are painted in vibrant pastel colours.
Look up the Mountain to the old Copper Mines - but be careful
exploring as there are unmarked and very deep mine shafts.
Just South of Allihies on the coastal road are the Children of
Lir - a romantic Irish Legend where the Children of Lir were turned
into Swans and after many years were buried on the signposted
site on the coastal road. Many people leave offerings - please
don't touch them.
 Dscf0284.jpg Castletownbere |
 Dscf0294.jpg Castletownbere |
 Dscf0297.jpg Castletownbere |
 Dscf0321.jpg Derrintagart West |
 Dscf0324.jpg Derrintagart West |
 Dscf0331.jpg Puxley Mansion Harbour |
 Dscf0333.jpg Puxley Mansion |
 Dscf0338.jpg Puxley Mansion |
 Dscf0366.jpg Garnish Bay |
 Dscf0413.jpg Dursey Cablecar |
 Dscf0626.jpg Inchiquin |
 Dscf0792.jpg Inchiquin |
 Dscf0964.jpg Glanmore Lake |
 DSCF0980.jpg Castletownbere |
 Dscf2403.jpg Inchiquin |
 Dscf2416.jpg Jolly Sailors Bar |
 Dscf2417.jpg Jolly Sailors Bar |
 Dscf2695.jpg Dereen Gardens |
 Dscf2714.jpg Dereen Gardens |
 Dscf2722.jpg Dereen Gardens |
Castletownbere is a fishing port and it's quite busy with lots of shops but still friendly and has reasonably good Public toilets !
Get the FRESHEST fish in Ireland at the little shop just off
the Town Square ....
There are some very good pubs and restaurants some of the best
ones are in the main square
There is an easy to visit Stone Circle well signposted
a couple of miles West on a country road.
An Iron age ring fort is a bit further on the same road. Note
the Standing stone in a back garden of the way back to Castletownberehaven
.
There's a ruined mansion house to the south West of Castletownbere
(about 2 Km) which belonged to the Puxleys and was burnt down
It looks like a private drive but it's OK to visit.
There's an impressive gatehouse and a bit further a gate across
the road. Be sure to close the gate or the cows and horses get
out !
It is the ruins of The Puxley Mansion (sometimes called
Dunboy Castle) This is one of the most Spectacular ruined castles
in Ireland and can be a bit spooky -
(Especially at Dusk ...) there's a small ruined Castle a bit
further on the same road.
The Mansion is called both the Puxley Mansion and Dunboy Castle
locally so it is a bit confusing.
Good scenic views from Castletownbere on the road to Dursey Point.
There's a dolmen on the corner as you turn off the main road to
Dursey Point.
You can sometimes see Puffins and other unusual birds on Dursey
Point (in Summer) where there's a ruined church that used
to be a castle site.
Dolphins and whales are often sighted off this headland
.
Looking due west from the Cable Car you'll see the famous Skellig
Islands.
You can also go to Dursey Island.
There's a cable car from the mainland but the schedule's flexible
and it's only 1 Euro return !
There's room for six people or one person and a cow - I'm not
kidding !
It's a a little eccentric I think ….. don't go late in the
day unless you plan to stay the night.
The whole of the coast down here is very pretty with fine view
back to the mainland.
Lots of side trips to explore (usually well signposted) and the
pace of life is much slower on Beara …
You'll like it
Go back on the Southern coast road and you'll come out at Glengariff
with it's lovely island gardens and seal colony
If you want to explore Beara more then there are several good maps available that show all the antiquities - you can get these at either of the two
bookshops in Kenmare or at Supervalue.