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The
Ring of Kerry Guide
The RING OF
KERRY - The REAL Guide !
By Keith Jones
When you dream of Ireland, Kerry comes to your mind.
Here is a guide to the beautiful Ring of Kerry and
Killarney.
The full journey around the Ring is over 180 km and will take
you around 4 to 5 hours
(unless you get behind the Kerry company car (a blue tractor
!)
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Wherever you stay please ignore the advice in many guidebooks
that you can get rooms in Ireland for $10 a room.
Many US,Italian and French guidebooks are well out of date and
were printed 10 or 20 years ago - They should be ashamed of themselves
! I've even seen these rates quoted in recently printed guidebooks.
That was the rate 12 years ago !!!
A B& B in Ireland will currently cost you between 25 and
50 Euro PER PERSON PER NIGHT and should include a full
Irish breakfast.
(We charge 25 Euro per person per night for more upmarket accomodation
and food !) You should expect ensuite shower & WC at the
higher end of these prices.
Most b&b's also offer TV and tea/coffee making facilities.
Single rooms are hard to find. Hostels cost from 15 to 20 Euro
per person per night.
Campsites charge from about 15 Euro per person per night.
I used to use campsites till I worked out the advantage of hot
showers cumfy beds and a cooked breakfast !
What should you eat - FISH !!!
The Ring of Kerry is rightly famous for it's fish and shellfish
and of course Guinness is the favourite drink.
Irish Steak is also justly famous and some b&b's offer an
evening barbeque.
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I suggest that car drivers go round the Ring in a clockwise direction
to avoid being stuck behind coaches. But you will meet them coming
towards you ! Be particularly careful approaching bridges and
blind corners.
Our Journey starts at KENMARE - the Jewel in the Ring of Kerry.
It's a beautiful town full of colour-washed houses and shops
and some of the best restaurants in Ireland.
Park in the large car park by the Church and and look inside
the Church for a peek at it's Stunning Stained Glass windows
and the lovely Celtic Cross outside..
In the woods behind the car park is a small tower - It commemorates
the Battle of Bunker Hill in Boston USA .
On to the town centre and cross the Green to the large Stone
Circle which is signposted from The Club Restaurant and is available
to visit.
Back to the Green and follow the sign to Cromwell's bridge by
following the path round the new houses and going through the
gap in the stone wall and the bridge is really nice.
(actually it's hundreds of years older than Cromwell and it is
really called Crombhail's Bridge) .
See the photos of Kenmare HERE : 
Opposite the new houses is St Mary's Holy Well - with healing
properties and this is a lovely peaceful spot.
Above the tourist office is the Kenmare Lace centre and it's
well worth a visit for the history of lacemaking and a chance
to buy REAL Kenmare lace.
Have lunch in a local pub or at the very fine Fish and Chip
Shop in Main Street.
On the 15th August is the wonderful Kenmare Horse Fair - a chance to see
a real horse fair with also cows,sheep.goats,chickens etc.
Lots of great characters come down from the surrounding mountains
and you'll have a grand time in the pubs !
Book accomodation early or you won't get a room !
(There's an amazing selection of pubs from the traditional to
the ultra modern - most do good food at reasonable prices.)
Kenmare is one of the best shopping centres on the Ring and Quill's
store in the square offers many bargains and a wide choice -
but you should look at the smaller shops for really imaginative
and traditional hand-crafted items.
The gift shops have very high quality goods and you can shop
till you drop !
Drive out of Kenmare on the Molls Gap Road and turn left at the
service station (don't forget to fill up on fuel !) towards SNEEM
and you'll pass some lovely countryside on the way to Templenoe
(Don't forget to wave to us on the right hand side at the big
red B&B sign !
Be careful of HORSES on the road as you'll be passing Dromquinna
Stables (who do great pony trekking and riding offers)
Turn left at the Templenoe sign for a stunning view of the Beara
peninsula and the Kenmare river flowing to the sea - unmissable
!.
On the right hand side of the road is the wonderfully situated
Ring of Kerry Golf Course - stunning views and a good restaurant
too (open to the public) - oh yes and a great game of golf too
!
On to Blackwater (be careful on Blackwater bridge - its really
narrow) and then to Sneem where you can wander round the village
with TWO village Greens and lots of nice traditional shops. The
Fish & Chip shop is excellent and there are a number of fine
restaurants too.
Dan Foley's Pub is a great traditional pub with a long history.
Sneem has a lovely riverside walk with a sculpture park and you
can
sometimes see seals from the pier. On the right hand side as
you leave Sneem are stunning views along the valley towards McGillycuddy's
Reeks Mountains.
At Castlecove there are picturesque ruined cottages and past
the pub on the right is a sign to the Staigue Fort which is a
very impressive circular stone fort at the head of a picturesque
valley (small admission charge) DON'T
MISS IT !
There's a Llama farm on the way to Staigue Fort which it's sometimes
possible to visit. and a medieval bridge in a lovely setting.
Back to the main road and just past the Bistro Blue is a small
colony of seals that you can see from the road.
There are beautiful beaches at White Strand and beyond to Caherdaniel.
Vistit Derrynane House the home of Daniel O'Connor who won Catholic
Emancipation in 1829. There are more wonderful beaches nearby.
The road from here to Waterville is in poor condition ***beware
of potholes***
A fabulous view (one of the best in Ireland) is from the Pub
on the side of the road with a small carpark on the right.
Another scenic view is from the large carpark at Beenarourke
with panoramic views across Derrynane Bay.
Down the hill towards Waterville take a side trip left just past
the church to the signposted Loher Fort - a little smaller than
the Staigue Fort but in a superb location.(Careful it's a very
shrp bend to the left and poorly signposted)
Back down towards Waterville there's a stone row silhouetted
against the sky and looks quite spectacular.
In Waterville are the usual shops plus a superb long beach and
a statue of Charlie Chaplin on the seafront.
Poke around the side lanes to see super murals and antique shops.
Waterville is a Gaelic speaking area.
Most guidebooks suggest going straight to Cahersiveen but I suggest
a side trip aroung the Skellig Ring (very narrow roads though
!) where you'll see the Skelligs Information centre, standing
stones,and wonderful views to Puffin Island and the Skelligs.
From Portmagee you can go on an amazing boat trip to the Skelligs
which are a group of Island in the Atlantic of quite stunning
beauty. The Skelligs are one of only two Irish International
Heritage Sites.
The boat trip takes half a day and should
be booked the previous day . MAKE SURE THE WEATHER WILL
BE GOOD!
(This is because the boats are not very big and this IS the North
Atlantic !) I went with J. Roddy and sons on 087 1209924
and they were excellent)
Take sensible flat shoes and something waterproof and a packed
lunch.On arrival at Skellig Michael you climb onto the small
pier and follow a wide footpath alongside the rock.You should
also take WATER as there is none on the island.
The path becomes a series of HUNDREDS of steps and you should
only attempt this part of the trip if you have a good head for
heights. The steps often go alongside the cliffs with NO HANDRAIL.
Please be careful.
On the way up you'll pass hundreds of seabirds (including puffins
in season)
At the very top is an interesting Early Christian Monastery with
wonderful views to Little Skellig
After this the boat takes you around Little Skellig - a HUGE
Gannet Colony and you suddenly realise those white peaks are
ALL Gannets. A great trip and thoroughly recommended.
From Portmagee is a bridge to Valentia. There's a visitor centre
just over the bridge.
I suggest you also include Valentia Island on your trip - it
takes about an hour to go round the island and is the best way
to see
what Ireland was like 40 years ago. you may see sheep or goats
in the road so drive
safely. Knightstown is pretty
and the ruined church outside has very interesting monuments.
There's a nice Grotto and interesting early Christian and pre-Christian
buildings and remains.
Cahersiveen is an interesting town with good facilities and lots
of nearby standing stones and an Oratory
Cross the bridge at the heritage centre and follow the cycle
path for the most interesting things ! Ruined castles and Iron
Age Forts !!!
On through Kells (no not THE Kells .. another one !) and past
Rossbeigh and Glenbeigh with super beaches to Killorglin.
Killorglin is a sleepy town except at PUCK FAIR - where
it becomes a pretty fair re-run of the last days of the Roman
Empire
This is a horse and Cattle Fair where the high point is the crowning
of a HUGE Billy Goat as King Puck
(Actually it's all a bit Wicker Mannish and comes from a pre-Christian
Pagan Festival and is immensely popular with tens of thousands
of visitors drinking huge quantities of Guinness and generally
having a great time - OK I exaggerated the Roman last days bit
but you
get the idea .... lots of drink and inter-sex fraternisation
on a massive scale !!) Oh yes ... and it's FUN!(er... I changed
my mind it really IS like the last days of Rome !!)
Side trips to the coast between Killorglin and Killarney are
suggested for magnificent views of the Dingle Peninsula.
Look out for potholes in the road though ... roads in pretty
poor condition.
Turn off at Beaufort for the famous Gap of Dunloe and Jarvey
trips in great countryside.
See Kate's Cottage and just go for a stroll and enjoy it.
On now to Killarney for a good bit of shopping at the huge discount
centre next to the Railway and Bus Station.

Killarney is a good centre with loads of shops and restaurants
and it gets VERY VERY BUSY in July and August.
There are branches of LIDL and TESCO supermarkets for stocking
up for picnics etc.
On the N71 is a small signpost to Ross Castle which is spectacularly
located on the lake and you can also go on boat trips on the
lake
Frankly that's a VERY poor bit of signposting - the road is
about 100 yards from the big traffic island to the right from
Killarney. Lookout for deer in the woods on your right hand side
- there are lots of them..
Now you should head along the N71 road from Killarney to Muckross
and visit Muckross House with lots to see and do at the House
itself and the lovely gardens..The old time farm is well worth
a visit and so is the boat trip on the Lake.
About 2K along the road is Torc Waterfall with a car park on
the left hand side. Reasonably good access to this spectacular
waterfall.
Please remember that while we have a really low crime rate you
should NEVER leave valuables in your car.
You are now in the Killarney National Park with spectacular
Mountains and Waterfalls. Most of the laybys are worth stopping
at.
There's a small rock tunnel on a blind bend after about 5Km.
Please approach it carefully .
Ladies View is the
best known viewpoint with a panoramic view over the lakes back
to Killarney.There's a cafe/bar there.
Beware of coaches coming towards you as they often cut across
the corners on these very winding roads.
Sheep are a major road hazard and may well fall asleep in the
road.
You can even ADOPT A SHEEP - a scheme run by a local farmer to
preserve rare mountain breeds.
Eventually you'll come to Molls Gap with a large souvenir centre
and car park with good views where you take the left hand turn
back to Kenmare.
Turn right at The Road to Sneem and Rockvilla is just a few minutes
drive to a welcoming cup of tea !
In the Summer we do the best cream teas for miles !
This is my little commercial ! - When visiting the Ring of
Kerry why not stay at our B&B - Rockvilla tel 064 41331 -
just a few minutes drive out of Kenmare in Templenoe (on the
road to Sneem)
Why stay in the noise of town when you can sleep peacefully in
the countryside just a few minutes away ?
(And our food is EXCELLENT too !)
ASK
ME QUESTIONS ABOUT THE RING OF KERRY !
amberlodge@eircom.net
Templenoe
Kenmare
County Kerry
Ireland
Tel 064 41331
All Photos and Text are COPYRIGHT(C)
2006 and may not
be reproduced without permission
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